Bernhards Random Ramblings BACKUP

Module One was the first complete module I built. It was meant as a test whether I can work with sufficient precision to put together modules. It confirmed I can and I went on to build Untergröningen and other modules. It turned out that using a Fremo E96 endplate on both ends of the module made construction simple, but the module not particularly versatile or interesting. I planned to complete and use the module as staging backdrop for train photos, but eventually lost interest in favor of building modules that supported operations on the Welztalbahn. Module One had a somewhat awkward size, too, so I decided to convert Module One into two small modules to transition from E96 to F96. That should be easy: Make a cut across the middle, create two modules 8 inch and 12 inch in length respectively, and fit F96 endplates reusing the rest of the module structure. That was easy. What I didn't consider was the amount of effort it takes to fit an endplate to an existing module under existi...

While Streckenende is drying , I pulled out Module 1 and continued working there. I have no grass fibers that look like dried long grass, so I went for the next best thing: burnt grass. Mixed with Scenic Express Late Summer and Noch Wildwiese fibers I arrived at a lighter grass tone and used that for the track embankment. Between the tracks and the grass should be a bit flat exposed earth where almost nothing grows due to weed control spraying. I used some fine dark sand I collected years ago at the beach for that. This sand strip needs to be glued down before applying grass on the embankment. The other way around doesn't look particularly good, and needed a bit of effort to fix. Next I applied a thin layer of real dirt from our garden to the flat area, soaked in Matte Medium and dapped with an old paint brush for more texture. While that is still wet, I applied a mix of Scenic Express 2mm Late Summer fibers, Noch Wildgrass 2.5mm, and some Noch medium green 5mm fibers. I'm plan...

The ballast is shaped and soaked in glue. Time to let it dry ...

I again used the basket rasp to shape the pink foam and Scuptamold to blend it together, followed by sandpaper to even out the edges. The photo below was taken when the Scuptamold was still wet. I wanted to airbrush the track in Modelmaster Leather, but the little bit I had left in the tin was way too thick and dried up to go through the air brush, so I used Vallejo Model Air Mahagony, followed by a tint of Iawata Soft Dirt to lighten up the brown a bit. It came out ok, but took way too much effort to get there. While at it, I painted the module top earth-brown. Tonight I started to ballast the track. The center studs are more visible than I'd like, but let's see what it looks like when I'm all done.

While the pink foam sheet yield a very lightweight surface cover, it's also perfectly flat, which doesn't look particularly natural, unless your layout is set in the far North of Germany. I dressed up the sides of the track board with more pink foam and shaped it into an embankment with a basket rasp. While at it, I also carved the drainage ditch. Next I hit one side of the module with the jigsaw, cut a light depression into the side, and used the basket rasp to even it out again. I applied Scuptamold tinted with brown paint to tie it all together. The cutoff from the one side was glued to the other side and backfilled with more pink foam cutoffs. More terraforming and shaping will happen once the glue is dry.

Test setup at the work bench. Module 1 and the experimental module end are connected, hooked up, and have power. I tried with a a few locomotives and didn't run into problems. As mentioned before the real test will be with the turnouts on the next module. Moving on to painting the rails and ballasting.

I'm almost done with wiring up module 1. Another late evening job, and I sure hope this is actually going to work, since I have not tested the track yet. If it doesn't, ... well, at least I've gone through the motions once and know what to do for the next module. I really like working on cabling this way. I sit or stand at the work bench, tools in front of me, soldering iron on the side. I can turn the module for convenient access, or rotate it like in this shot from earlier in the evening No fuzzing around under the layout. Really nice. The module is much lighter than a layout, so while it stands easily, it also easily tips over. But with no scenery on the other side yet, I can put it on its face as needed, too.

I dusted off the frame for module 1 I built in October , and cut some Peco SL100 flex track. The idea here is to build a module that attempts to hide the Maerklin-typical center studs as much as possible, and get an idea about the amount of work it takes to do it, while staying compatible with regular Maerklin K-track. This time I used the "melt-it-into-the-plastic-ties" method of attaching the pickup studs from Weichen Walter. This feels easier than the "screw-and-solder" method I used on the test piece . However, it's still quite easy to drift off the middle and not hit center line, so my studs are not 100% straight. I wonder how I'm going to do that on a curved module... Attaching the center studs takes time, but goes faster than I expected. The strip sticks out below the track by about 0.7mm and that needs to be taken into account when mounting the track. I cut a V-groove into the trackbed, which worked quite well. Overall, it turned out not too shabby, ...

[ Module 1 posts ] Before we went on our weekend trip, I noticed that one end plate of Module 1 was not 100% vertical. That's obviously bad, and I chalked it up to inexperience . ... However, mistakes exist to either not do them again, or at least try to fix them. A few hits to a chisel loosened the side boards and I was able to align the face plate. I'll let the glue dry for a while before removing the clamps ...

[ Module 1 posts ] Tonight I continued with the module frame I started yesterday . I cut the intermediate crossbars to length and glued them into place. In a modular arrangement the legs would be mounted to the crossbars, so they'd support the whole module. I should add some corner pieces for additional support. Next, I glued a 5mm thin piece of wood to the roadbed. This is where the track gets mounted on and will disappear under ballast later. I cut the pink foam to the proper width and trimmed the piece to fit. With the second piece of pink foam installed, here's the module underside. And the top.  While the module sits flat on the floor, one of the end plates is not 100% vertical, so it's unlikely that I will use this module in a modular arrangement. Nevertheless, I'll continue this build learn as much as I can from it.

[ Module 1 posts ] I started yet another project: A practice Fremo-Puko module. The idea is to build an easy module before I build more complicated ones. Rectangular box. Straight track. How hard could that possibly be? Right angles are important here and my jigsaw has a slightly crooked foot, thanks to a fall several years ago. I managed reasonably well with the portable circular saw, but this would have been a lot easier had I pulled out the table saw. The module end pieces are laser cut, ordered from Harald Brosch . Update 10:19pm: I had planned to leave the parts alone until tomorrow. Let's just say that plans are made to be changed... My first Fremo module frame. I have no way to test how accurate the angles are, but looks pretty close to what it should be. It sits flat on the floor, so at the very least I didn't build it crooked.